I have admired Giorgio Armani since 1975, when he launched his first couture collection for menswear. That's when I purchased a pair of Armani trousers that were truly amazing. While trousers are typically made with a seam along each side of the leg, Armani designed this pair with additional seams down the front and back of each leg, making the trousers look like sculpture. However, it was another unique design feature that truly inspired my purchase.
The trousers were pleated, but the pleats were not sewn into place. Instead, they were created with a pair of carefully placed holes in the waistband that folded over and buttoned. This design detail was then repeated on the outside of each cuff. The way the pants fit and draped convinced me that Armani was a genius. I wore those pants until they were completely worn out, then signed up for a pattern-making class so I could make another pair.
Twenty-six years later, I discovered Jade Sapphire's spectacular cashmere yarn from Mongolia. As I knitted a gauge swatch and visualized a luxurious sweater, I thought of Armani and many of his beautiful creations from the past. When an image of those trousers appeared in my mind, I was inspired to apply Armani's simple pleat idea to the waistband of my sweater. The knitter who works my pattern can wear the waist unbuttoned for a loose, casual look or button the pleats to hug their waist.
Following Armani's approach to design, I kept this knitting pattern very simple: only three rows of ribbing at the neck, wrist, and waist, and clean, elegant invisible raglan seams for the sleeves. Every time I wore it, someone complimented the sweater, and I always let them know that Giorgio Armani inspired the design.
Perhaps the most satisfying part of knitwear design has been the ways in which so many wonderfully talented fashion designers around the world have influenced me. Today, as I think of Giorgio Armani after his recent passing, I simply say to myself: Thank you, Signore Armani.
